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How do big wave surfers choose the perfect wave to ride?

Chanel Moughtin

Well, as a surfer myself, I can tell you that choosing a wave to ride is all about instinct and experience. When you're out there in the water, you have to be in tune with the ocean and its rhythms. Big wave surfers are especially attuned to this because they're dealing with massive swells and huge amounts of water moving around them.

One thing big wave surfers look for is the shape of the wave. They want it to be steep enough to provide a good drop (that initial rush when you start riding the wave), but not so steep that it's impossible to ride. They also want the wave to be clean and unbroken, with no chop or foam.

Another key factor is the size of the wave. Obviously, big wave surfers are looking for -- you guessed it -- big waves. But they don't just go for the biggest wave they see. They have to make sure it's a manageable size for their skills and experience level. And they have to be able to paddle fast enough to catch it.

Speaking of paddling, that's another important aspect of wave selection. Big wave surfers have to be in incredible physical shape to paddle hard and fast enough to catch a wave that might be moving at 30 or 40 miles per hour. They also have to time their paddling just right so they're in the right spot when the wave starts to break.

Of course, big wave surfers also have to take into account the conditions on that particular day. Is the wind blowing offshore or onshore? Is the tide coming in or going out? All of these factors can have a big impact on the waves and how they behave.

Ultimately, though, wave selection comes down to a gut feeling. There's no exact science to it, no formula that guarantees success. Big wave surfers have to trust their instincts and make split-second decisions based on the ever-changing conditions in the water. It's a thrilling and dangerous sport, but for those who excel at it, there's nothing quite like the rush of riding a giant wave.